Yemeni mandi: lamb or chicken, fire under the ground

Mandi has become known across the Arab world, but it is Yemeni, usually traced back to Hadramaut. The secret is the method: lamb or chicken cooks in a deep tandoor with the rice underneath, catching the juices and the smoke.

The tandoor and the smoke

Traditionally the oven is dug into the ground and heated with wood or charcoal until it glows. The meat or chicken hangs inside, the lid is closed and it cooks in steam and trapped heat. Fat and juices drip onto the rice below, giving it its colour and smoky flavour. The name is often linked to an Arabic word for dew or moisture, a nod to the tender, juicy meat.

Lamb mandi

• usually lamb, the dish for celebrations and big gatherings
• takes time: about three hours or more on gentle heat
• comes off the bone at a touch and melts in the mouth
• richer, heavier flavour, often with rice cooked in the broth

Chicken mandi

• lighter and faster, around an hour
• the skin turns golden and smoky
• great for everyday meals and families
• the spices stand out more because the chicken is milder

The spices

Mandi rests on a Yemeni spice blend called hawaij: often cumin, coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and turmeric, with garlic and, in some recipes, dried Omani lime. The rice is seasoned with it and in some homes enriched with raisins and almonds.

What goes with it?

Mandi is not complete without sahawiq, a fresh, spicy sauce of tomato, chilli, garlic and coriander, a green salad and maybe a glass of tea. It is usually eaten from one large platter that the family shares.

Taste it at KAYAN

The KAYAN menu in Haarlem has lamb mandi and chicken mandi. Order for pickup or book a table.